The following is based on my research on scuba equipment maintenance. Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations and the advice of your local dive shop. If there is any variation, go with the most conservative approach. Your life literally depends on it.
A note on service technicians
There is no industry standard “certification” for BCD and regulator technicians in the United States. There is no international standard for BCD and regulator technicians. In some foreign countries, there are standards and training, but in many places, it is done by someone at the shop who then attends training provided by each manufacturer for their gear only. In other words, you had better be 100% sure you trust your local shop to get their technicians the correct training. If they are a certified dealer, they will have it as it’s required by the manufacturer.
To outfit a shop just to service a few brands of regulators is not a small investment. The manufacturers classes are usually weekend classes covering all of their current models and cost a few hundred dollars EACH. So, for one technician and a work bench of tools, a shop servicing several brands could spend thousands. In addition, most manufacturers do not allow you to take their course unless you are affiliated with a dive shop, so there is no “preparing” in advance for a job.
This is an area of concern for me. My local dive shops seem to have solid technicians. I’ve heard nothing but good reviews on equipment service and no stories of failures causing injury or worse. It still makes me really uncomfortable that for literal life support equipment that there’s not a better standard of training beyond experience and a weekend class from each vendor. I’d love to see a vendor agnostic weeklong certification course or something like that.
There is no ISO standard but there is a European standard. I am hopeful that at some point in the future, ISO and the US will adopt something similar. Here’s one more frustration point. You have to pay to get a copy of the European standard. It’s not cheap. It’s a safety standard. It costs more than a university textbook to get a copy of it.
There are requirements in the US for scuba tanks. They fall under guidelines from the United States Department of Transportation (USDOT) and the Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA). It’s the same agency that has requirements for tanks of helium or nitrogen or any number of other gasses because they are under high pressure. Classes are required to fill, inspect, handle, and maintain pressurized tanks. In addition, very specialized equipment is needed to do hydro testing on tanks, and some scuba shops outsource it to companies that service other types of tanks as well.
Regulators
I cannot stress enough that you do not screw around with the maintenance of your regulator. It is your lifeline.
Get your regulator serviced at least once a year by a qualified technician (more frequently if you dive more often). They will do the following:
- Complete disassembly and cleaning. Do not try to do this yourself.
- Inspection of all parts for wear or damage.
- Replacement of necessary parts like diaphragms, O-rings, and even the main valve if needed.
Routine Maintenance
- Post-Dive Rinse: After each dive, rinse your regulator with fresh water. This helps remove salt, sand, and other debris that can cause corrosion or damage. Clean the mouthpiece too.
- Functional Check: Before each dive, perform a basic function check.
- Check for air flow by breathing from it on the surface.
- Ensure the purge button works correctly.
- Listen for any unusual sounds or feel for any hesitations in air delivery.
- Storage: Store your regulator in a cool, dry place. Ensure it’s dry before storing to prevent mold or corrosion.
- Avoid Extreme Conditions: Try not to leave your regulator in direct sunlight or extreme hot/cold for prolonged periods, as this can affect the materials and seals. One of the used regulators that I got that was not serviceable due to lack of parts availability – the plastic purge button crumbled to pieces when I pushed on it.
Always refer to your regulator’s specific maintenance guidelines as provided by the manufacturer, as different models might have unique requirements. If you’re unsure about any aspect of maintenance, it’s safer to consult or visit a dive shop for professional service. Again, do NOT screw around with this.
Tanks
Tanks require a visual inspection annually. That’s not looking around the outside of the tank – they actually empty it, remove the valve, and inspect it on the inside as well. Some older tanks were made with a different aluminum alloy (6351) than used today that has issues with developing cracks around the neck, so educate yourself and be careful with older tanks. My opinion is that you’ll want tanks made from the newer 6061 aluminum and will want to avoid the 6351 alloy.
Hydro testing is supposed to be done at a minimum of every five years for aluminum tanks and every 3 years for steel. As with any of these recommendations, apparently more frequently is recommended if you dive a lot.
Remember that a scuba tank is at 3000 psi. You walk around at 14.7 psi. If anything goes wrong with it above water or below, someone could die. This maintenance applies to the oxygen tanks in a dive first aid kit as well, if you carry one.
A note on cylinder nets and boots: If you use these, use care. I’ve read a few stories of the nets causing issues with the security of the cylinder in the BCD. I’ve seen videos and photos of damage to cylinders because of the boots holding debris, salt, and water up against the tank that was not cleaned out properly. I don’t think I’ve seen a single service technician in any interview or online that was in favor of using cylinder boots at all unless the shape of the tank bottom required it.
Routine Maintenance
- Post-Dive Care: After each dive, rinse the exterior of the tank with fresh water to remove salt, sand, and other debris that can cause corrosion.
- Regular Maintenance:
- Visual Inspection: Every Dive: Check for any visible damage, such as dents, cracks, or corrosion.
- Monthly or Before Each Trip: Inspect the tank valve for any signs of wear or damage.
- Hydrostatic Testing:
- Every 5 Years: Aluminum tanks need hydrostatic testing.
- Every 3 Years: Steel tanks require more frequent testing due to their material properties. This test checks for wall thickness and any structural integrity issues. Always keep track of when your tank was last tested; this date is usually stamped on the tank.
- Annual Visual Inspection by a Professional: Have your tank visually inspected by a certified technician. They look for internal corrosion, pitting, or any other damage not visible to the untrained eye.
- Storage: Always store scuba tanks upright to prevent moisture from settling in the valve, which could lead to corrosion.
- Keep Dry: Ensure the tank is dry before storing to prevent rust or mold.
- Avoid Extreme Temperatures: Do not store tanks in areas that get extremely hot or cold, as this can affect the material integrity of the tank.
- Pre-Dive Pressure Check: Before each dive, check the tank’s pressure to ensure it holds air. A tank that loses pressure overnight might have a leak.
- Listen for Leaks: After filling, listen for any hissing sounds which could indicate a leak.
- Avoid Overfilling: Ensure your tank is not overfilled beyond its rated capacity, which can be dangerous.
- Keep Records: Maintain a log of all maintenance, inspections, and tests performed on your tank.
BCDs
Annual maintenance is recommended at your local shop. Follow manufacturer recommendations and the service recommendations of your local service technician.
Routine Maintenance
- Post-Dive Rinse: Rinse your BCD with fresh water after every dive to remove salt, sand, and other debris. This helps prevent corrosion and wear. Don’t forget to rinse inside the bladder and empty it thoroughly.
- Drying: Hang the BCD to dry thoroughly, ensuring all pockets and crevices are dry to prevent mold and mildew.
- Storage: Store the BCD in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. UV rays can degrade materials over time.
- Inspection: Regularly check for any signs of wear or damage, especially around the bladder, seams, buckles, and zippers. Take it in for maintenance/repair if you find any.